Bonneville Hot Springs | Easy to Reach, Hard to Forget
We’re no strangers to Idaho’s hot springs scene—but let’s just say we’ve barely dipped our toes in. Whenever the topic comes up, my “to-visit” list grows longer. At this point, it’s becoming more of a scroll in my notes app.
We recently visited Bonneville Hot Springs, a unique geothermal soak located along the Ponderosa Pine Scenic Byway (also known as the Lowman Highway or Stanley-Lowman Highway). Nestled between Stanley and Lowman in central Idaho, it’s just about 20 miles from Kirkham Hot Springs, which I wrote about in a previous post.
First Impressions: Not as Remote as Expected
Bonneville Hot Springs has been on my list for ages, mostly due to its reputation for untouched beauty and that almost ethereal, fairy-realm vibe.
What surprised me most? How easy it was to get to.
It’s located in a campground. Who knew? (Okay, probably a lot of people, but not me.) All of the descriptions I read about it made it seem remote and not widely known. To the contrary, it was right off the highway with well-marked signs and easy access. Because we went in the early season (April) the campground wasn’t open yet, which did add to the walk in. However, this definitely provided some preferred privacy and made it feel a bit more special, but I imagine in the busy months, that place sees a lot of visitors.
Meet the Hot Springs Wizard (Yes, Really)
Bonneville is the only hot springs I’ve visited that comes with a self-proclaimed caretaker... who dresses like a wizard. We can’t remember exactly what he said his name was, but we think he said Charlie. I do know his golden retriever is named Buddy—a very friendly little trail sprite who definitely deserves his own mention. Upon our arrival, we chatted with Charlie the Hot Springs Wizard and he informed us that he manages the pools now. Is Hot Springs Wizard an official title and position with the Forest Service? Doubtful given all the DOGE cuts, but Charlie seemed to take his job quite seriously, so I didn’t raise too many questions lest I offend him. So, if you see a man in a kilt, wizard hat, and a staff/shovel, be sure to say hi and give Buddy the trail sprite a treat.
The Pools: Scalding, Cold, and Somewhere In Between
The springs are fed through a stream running down the mountain into Warm Springs Creek. The spring water is scalding - the Wizard told us it’s about 120 degrees (Fahrenheit) but it mixes with the creek, so the pools are much cooler.
In my experience, the water didn’t exactly blend—it was more like surprise zones of freezing creek water and sudden bursts of lava. I imagine on a warmer day it would be fine to lounge in, but on a rainy April day, I was hoping for something a bit warmer and consistent.
That’s where the tub comes in.
The Tub on the Hill: Your Private Idaho Spa
Perched up on the hillside is a little shack with an old tub. From the outside, it’s got a slight murder-y vibe, but the inside has candles, fairy lights, and hooks to hang towels. A pipe runs into the tub and there are carved wooden plugs so you can fill the tub and soak for a bit.
Somehow, this water was the perfect temperature and absolutely made the experience. It was fun to sit and read all of the little carvings along the walls, the oldest one we found was dated back in the 1970s.
One person fits comfortably. Two people? Cozy but doable.
A Peaceful Sendoff
As we packed up and headed out, I took one last walk through a small rock labyrinth just off the trail. Historically, labyrinths are quiet spaces used for meditation or prayer. I moved slowly, watching the steam curl off the rocks and rise into the misty spring air. It felt like the perfect punctuation mark to a wonderfully weird and peaceful afternoon.
Final Thoughts: Why Bonneville Hot Springs is Worth the Trip
Between the fairy-lit tub, the scalding-cold-hot pools, and the Hot Springs Wizard and his spritely golden retriever, Bonneville managed to charm me completely. There’s something special about a place that feels both magical and slightly chaotic. Like nature threw together a spa day and forgot to mention it was open to the public.
It’s officially climbed the ranks of my favorite Idaho soaks. And yes, I added five more hot springs to my list on the drive home. That list may never get shorter, but honestly, I’m not in a hurry.